Via Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail, Inyo National Forest, CA
This is the backpacking trip I’ve been waiting for all year, with 3-generations tackling the North Fork Trail together to Big Pine Lakes! It’s Mom (me), daughter (Gwendolyn), Grandma (AKA Mom or Mitzi) and Aunt Mihl (my sister Heather) all joining in for a three night getaway in the Eastern Sierra. It’s early June and the timing is perfect!
We left Orange County bound for Bishop, CA along the sprawling desolation of HYW 395—beautiful in its own right. This is familiar territory since we’ve been driving up this stretch of highway since before I can remember, for ski trips and alpine summers at our vacation home in Mammoth Lakes (45 minutes north of Bishop). Yet, despite all those years, we hadn’t prioritized making pitstops along the route (beyond potty breaks)—until now. That changed with a picnic in the Alabama Hills, just west of the small town of Lone Pine.
The Alabama Hills reminded me a lot of Joshua Tree National Park with some similar rock formations, BUT with the regal backdrop of Mt. Whitney and way less crowds (a major perk considering COVID). Mt. Whitney rises to 14,505 ft. and just happens to be the tallest mountain in the Continental USA—impressive bragging rights for Californians! However, a little trivia: Despite CA having the tallest 14-er (meaning mountain over 14,000 feet), Colorado happens have the greatest number–a whopping 55 total. (I only bring this up since we just got confirmation on this trip that we’ll become Coloradans later this Summer since my husband was offered a promotion in Denver.)
As we ate our sandwiches nestled in the Alabama Hills, I was surprised to learn that this area served as the backdrop for over 400 Hollywood movies. Star Trek, Django Unchained, Iron Man are the more recent releases, while it was the chosen site for the classic westerns of the mid 20th-century, staring John Wayne and the likes. While otherworldly and striking, it’s also the perfect playground for my daughter, as she loved exploring and leaping across the maze of boulders.
We stayed for a couple hours total, but I wouldn’t have minded lingering longer. Instead, we continued on the 45 minutes to our hotel in Bishop, the Creekside Inn, to get the rest we needed before our early morning on the trail. This hotel was comfortable, with upscale amenities for a small town and a hint of refined rustic. And it literally DOES have a creek running through the manicured property, just as the name of the hotel suggests.
The next morning we woke early to get on the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail at a decent time. Note, you DO need to secure your wilderness permit beforehand if you’re backpacking. Visit https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/inyo/recarea/?recid=20328 or https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233262 for more information.
We parked at the trailhead with no issues (COVID must have deterred the crowds), which is about 11 miles west of the town of Big Pine, by the Glacier Lodge. However, we didn’t know at the time that overnight parking was not allowed—we lucked out not getting ticketed/towed. For the less risky option, I’d suggest parking at the adjacent campground or lodge. At the trailhead there were bathrooms and bear boxes for use. Note the local bears are known to ransack vehicles for food and fragranced items, so make sure to utilize those mentioned bear boxes (we did!).
So this was my daughter Gwendolyn’s first backpacking trip—at the time of our hike she was only 7-years-old. Second thoughts brewed, and I questioned whether this was an overly ambitious task, but she was up for it and rocked it! A year later, she still takes pride in her accomplishment and craves more. Furthermore, as a little lady coming into her own, I love watching her develop her confidence around what her body can do for her, opposed to what it looks like.
As we made our way from the trailhead, the elevation was gentle at first as we hiked along a creek and under the canopy of large pine. But once we emerged from the forrest, it was an immediate and daunting ascent under the blazing sun up an exposed mountainside with switchbacks. There was so little shade, leaving us to count the few trees—each tree meant a hard earned shaded rest and water break.
Once we made it up that slope and out of the sun-drenched valley, the scenery changed drastically to pine and aspens, giving us relief from the heat. Offering even more respite was the remains of the historic Chaney Cabin and the creek beyond its front porch, beaconing us for a quick dip.
After the cabin, you’re almost half way there! The trail steadily climbs as craggy, dynamic peaks come into view. With each corner we turned, the sheer verticals and shark-like points of the surrounding summits leave you feeling humbled standing in the cathedral of God’s magnificent creation. Just when you think it can’t get any more beautiful, you stumble upon Big Pine Lake #1, and then #2 comes into view just another few steps beyond that.
We ended up staying at Lake #1—mainly out of convenience. It was getting late and the rest of the group was wiped of energy. However, I dashed quickly to catch the view of Lake #2 while the others set up camp. It definitely had the “WOW” factor. Lake #1 was beautiful and our site was private, but if given the chance, I’d probably opt to pitch my tent next to Lake # 2 for the jaw dropping views of the lake, Palisade Glacier, and Temple Crag.
However, I do want to address one thing: There are a lot of photos circulating on Instagram that suggest this lake has turquoise water that’s comparable to the glacial lakes of Canada, but I have to wonder if these photos have been altered in some way (filters?). No doubt these alpine likes are crystal clear and brilliant in the right lighting, but having visited Banff National Park, to me they sadly don’t compare. Go figure, we’re in the Sierra Nevada, not the Canadian Rockies, but both are glorious in their own ways. I do love the domineering minarets of this region of the Sierras, and I gotta say, I really appreciate not having to worry about Grizzlies! Without a worry in the world, we slept soundly beneath a quick moving thunderstorm that rolled through camp just as we were getting ready for bed. We woke up to sun-drenched peaks and clear skies.
After a warm oatmeal breakfast using my JetBoil, we spent most of the morning at Lake #2 relaxing along the shore, splashing in the water, and filtering more water for the hike back down. Had we more time, I would have loved to trek further to the other five lakes (aptly named Big Pine Lake #3, #4, #5, #6, and #7) and Palisade Glacier. In fact, yesterday, we encountered a friendly couple carrying their snow skis on their backs in preparation for glacier skiing. I couldn’t help but wonder how they were enjoying it!
It took about half the time to get down the mountain, and a fraction of the breaks. That night we stayed in Bishop again and decided to support another locally owned hotel, this one a bit vintage motor inn charm: Bishop Elms Motel. http://www.bishopelmsmotel.com
Quick trail highlights (note we hiked only to the second lake):
If you plan to hike all the seven lakes, consider checking out the All Trails App for further details: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/california/big-pine-lakes-trail
Length: approx. 6 miles out and back
Elevation Gain: 3,000 to the 2nd lake
Camping: Dispersed campsites at first and second lakes (same for the other lakes). Bear canister required by forest service.
Permit: Yes, secure in advance (very popular trail). https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/inyo/recarea/?recid=20328
Trail Characteristics: Southern-most glacier in US (Palisade Glacier); Temple Crag; stunning lakes and streams, sprawling manzanita and sage covered slopes, long stretches without shade; meadows, historic cabin, 7 lakes total, Pine and Aspen forests
Other: bring a compact water filtration system or water filter bottle; pack-in/pack-out
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